Sunday, 19 February 2012

Best Of British Contemporary Jewellery Interview With Dower & Hall

Founded by husband and wife team, Dan Dower and Diane Hall, Dower & Hall create easy to wear pieces that become treasured favourites. You’ll be sure to find something beautiful and unique from their selection of gorgeous, personally designed jewellery, produced at their London studio. You can see a collection of their jewellery in The Best of British Jewellery Exhibition being held at Equinox Contemporary Jewellery from 18th February until 14th April 2012.

1.    How did you become involved in jewellery design?

We met each other at Middlesex university on a jewellery course, and after we had both graduated we decided to set up Dower & Hall with a Princes Trust business loan. This was a huge adventure for us and one of our greatest & fondest memories – we didn’t know what the future held! Along with the risks, we’ve had some fantastic trips – stone buying in India, researching in Thailand. We’ve had some memorable parties too over the years, we used to do quite a bit with British Fashion Week – I remember we used to attend some parties for this at Number 10 along with Princess Diana. 



2.    How would you describe your jewellery?

At first glance our designs cover a wide range of different styles, but on closer inspection there is a balance between the two main themes; sculptural curved forms (as with Nomad and the new Calla Lily collection) and a feminine accent; in the form of pretty pearls, engraved detailing or emotive messages (as seen in Spiral andMemento). We treat each new collection with the same attention to detail, working closely together, often with Dan carving or hammering out ideas from solid silver, where I love to select the most exquisite gemstones and pearls to complement each piece.
 We are a haven for jewellery connoisseurs with a taste for something unusual and personal - our main market is without doubt, professional style conscious women.

3. Whose jewellery do you admire?

H. stern jewellery is amazing. He made an appearance as Basle and was lovely. He was still working making jewellery at his bench in his 90s. Very impressive!

4. Which of your designs/collections are you most proud?
(A picture would be good if possible.)

Dan Dower:
Probably Memento, as it at last achieves something that I have been trying to make for 20 years – working with CAD CAM has allowed me to work with text in three dimensions with an accuracy and definition I previously couldn’t achieve. The manipulation that the computer programme enables allows us to be very creative with words to convey messages and emotions in a wonderfully tactile and visually precious jewel. The lockets in this collection hold secret messages when you open them up, and the rings fascinate with poems that reveal themselves as you turn them – jewellery that invites the wearer to interact.



Diane Dower:
Nomad, as it is a collection that continues to be so popular year in year out.
But my favourite, as it took so long to get the intricately engraved pattern right, would have to be Spiral.  My new favourite piece though is the spiral pod necklace in the new Array collection; it’s a colourful twist on one of our classic designs, and as it features several different colours it’s a perfect piece to be paired with lots of different outfits, and looks fab worn loose or wrapped around for a shorter layered look.



5. What advice would you give to aspiring jewellery designers?

We would advise that if possible they find a paid internship with a reputable designer or graduate scheme – a lot of really great talented designers give up because of the problems of being in business and trying to make a living - which is very sad and bad news for the country. There used to be an enterprise allowance scheme before I was in business and I know that it helped a lot of people who graduated in the years above me. It was not much money… but some of these companies are now very successful and employ lots of people. It’s a shame we cannot get something like this reintroduced to help graduates.

6. What does the future hold for your company?

For the months ahead we have some very exciting collections to embrace a momentous year for Britain, what with the Olympics being held here and the Queen’s diamond Jubilee. We are also currently trying to improve upon all aspects of our business, which include developing our social networks, refurbishing each of the stores, implementing a new EPOS system, investing in lots of new marketing materials and simply making our whole operation smarter. 

7. Do you undertake commissions, what sort of thing have you been commissioned to make?
Yes we do. Dan Dower offers a fantastic bespoke service. Here are some of his most memorable commissions:

-          A ring inspired by the revolving shapes and dynamic physics of galaxies – this one is still in development.
-          A pendant which from the front looks like a simple large round diamond but from the side reveals itself to be a three dimensional flower holding many diamonds. Subtle details with a big design impact.
-          A series of feathers for British indie-rock band Kasabian
-          A whole range of make-up themes charms for Virgin Vie cosmetics
-          Lion cufflinks for the Abode Hotel group in Glasgow inspired by the relief wallpaper pattern repeating in the central hallway.

8. Has your jewellery won any awards?

We have been fortunate enough to win many awards, but highlights have included: our 18ct yellow gold Tahitian pearl ‘Abacus’ necklace which won the Pearls of Tahiti Award, our 18ct yellow gold & 18ct white gold with diamonds ‘Phosphorescence cuff’ which won the Editor’s Choice at International Jewellery London 2011 (IJL) and our Memento collection, featuring scripted silver & gold jewellery which pays homage to love, was the winner of the Company of Master Jewellers Design of the Year Award 2011 (CMJ).

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